Portrait of an icon
Introduction from Tiggy Maconochie − Helmut Newtons’ agent and representative of the Helmut Newton Estate
The best ideas are usually simple ones...So when we got a call from Topshop talking about recreating the Helmut Newton Photo Machine from the 70’s, I knew that this simple yet clever idea would work. It embodies both photography and fashion in an original and effective way. There is no doubt that Helmut Newton continues to be one of the single most influential fashion photographers of all time.
But more often than not, installations of this nature are usually seen in a museum or gallery show. So it is refreshing that Topshop is recreating Helmut Newton's original idea in their flagship store, to offer customers the opportunity to participate directly in creating their own fashion image. Effectively, introducing a whole new audience to one of the world's most famous photographers.
Portrait of Helmut Newton
“The point of my photography has always been to challenge myself.”
Helmut Newton
Born in Berlin in 1920, Newton achieved international fame in the 1970’s while working principally for French Vogue. Renowned for the precision and glamour of his photographs as well as the striking, often controversial scenarios he chose for his models. He photographed women looking powerful, sexually predatory and available.
Image ©Alice Springs /
Maconochie Photography
Portraits of the beautiful, rich and famous have amplified his ever so real fantasy world.
The majority of Newton’s work was shot in the streets or in interiors, rather than the controlled environment of the studio. He was inspired by the German documentary photographer Erich Saloman and by Brassaï, the latter with whom he established a friendship. Much of his inspiration also derived from the daily newspapers, real life situations or paparazzi shots. Most striking was his ability to make a thoroughly planned photograph seem fresh and dynamic.
“During my whole life as a photographer the printed page was my dynamo. I realised very early on that the most important factor would be to be published, with a by-line, and that to me was much more important than the money people would pay me for my pictures.”
Helmut Newton
Images taken from Helmut Newton - Pages from the Glossies,
Scalo, 1998
Helmut Newton’s biography
- 1920Helmut Newton born 31 October, Berlin
- 1933 − 36Attends American School, Berlin
- 1936 − 38Apprentice to the fashion Photographer Yva
- 1938Leaves Berlin for Far East
- 1938 − 40Lives in Singapore
- 1940Lives in Australia for 17 years
- 1946Opens first Studio in Melbourne
- 1948Marries June Browne − who later becomes the photographer Alice Springs
- 1956Lives in London, contracted for 1 year British Vogue
- 1957 − 59Moves to Paris, works with Jardin des Modes
- 1959 − 61Returns to Melbourne, works for Australian Vogue
- 1961 − 83Returns to Paris, works for French Vogue for 23 years whilst also contributing to Elle, Queen, Nova, Marie-Claire, Stern as well as various editions of Vogue
- 1971Works for American Vogue
- 1971Creates the Helmut Newton Photo Machine
- 1975First individual exhibition Gallerie Nikon
- 1976White Woman, first photographic book published
- 1976 − 04Winters in Los Angeles (Dec − Mar) at The Chateau Marmont
- 1977Helmut Newton, documentary for Thames TV by Michael White
- 1978Sleepless Nights published
- 1980Commences the Big Nude Series
- 1981Moves to Monaco
- 1984Retrospective, Musee d’art moderne, Paris − first museum exhibition
- 1985Works for Vanity Fair, Primarily shoots portraits for a decade
- 1987Published own Magazine Helmut Newton Illustrated No1
- 1990Grand Prix National de la Ville de Paris
- 1992Grosses Bundesverdienstkreuz of the Federal Republic of Germany
- 1994Starts shooting fashion again for American and French Vogue
- 1995Helmut by June documentary, Canal+
- 1996Commandeur de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres
- 1999Helmut Newton Sumo Book published − The largest Photographic Book
- 2000Helmut Newton’s 80th Birthday Retrospective , Neue Nationalgalerie, Berlin
- 2001Officier de l’Order de Merite Cultural de Monaco
- 200423 January Helmut Newton dies of a fatal heart attack
- 2004The Helmut Newton Foundation opens
Helmut Newton Iconic Images
Words by Tiggy Maconochie
Woman regarding man American Vogue 1975
Helmut Newton enjoyed the controversy that some of his published pictures caused. This image was part of an editorial story for American Vogue, in the summer 1975 and caused a stir when it was published 33 years ago. Since then it has become an iconic fashion image, as it was the first fashion photo to objectify a man rather than the woman in the shot.
Image ©The Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography
Helmut Newton empowers the woman who is sitting comfortably on a sofa assuming a male attitude, staring with intent at the man. He is topless and remains anonymous as his head and face are out of shot but his gender is confirmed in the shadow of his head just behind the woman. As a result it has become a highly studied image in both art and education books.
Elsa Peretti, New York 1975
French Vogue 1976
Elsa Peretti is a celebrated jewellery designer and was part of the fashion scene in New York when this portrait was shot on the terrace of her apartment in strong daylight. She is wearing a ‘Bunny’ outfit by the designer Halston which is associated with night time, creating juxtaposition between night and day. The contrasting light heightens the dramatic New York skyline behind, adding to the drama of this image, but also giving it a very distinct geographical reference.
Image ©The Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography
Cindy Crawford
American Vogue 1991
Super model, Cindy Crawford stares down at us from centre stage, outside the opulent neo-classical opera house in Monte Carlo. Striking a pose almost like a gun fighter from a Western her stare fixes on the viewer. This was a swimwear editorial fashion shoot for American Vogue but there is no pool or beach in site; it’s not needed. The setting is exotic, the pose is striking and the idea simple, but not the result.
Image ©The Helmut Newton Estate / Maconochie Photography
In a tribute to Helmet Newton, Cindy Crawford said ‘The photos of Helmut Newton are a real force they make a mark that you never forget, this is a rare thing.’
"I met Helmut Newton. He said he liked women in high heels. Thank God, I was wearing them that day. To see yourself as a Helmut Newton fantasy power-woman − that would be the ultimate."
Sarah Mower
Contributing Fashion Editor American Vogue
The Original Newton Machine
In the 1970’s Helmut Newton came up with the idea of The Newton Machine, a specially made studio to take fashion images without the photographer being present. The Machine’s original purpose was to capture the subject as they see themselves, which draws parallels to today’s obsession with engineering one’s self-image.
Images taken from Helmut Newton
- Pages from the Glossies,
Scalo, 1998
“I had a photo-machine built, a camera fitted with a motor and a timer that can be adjusted by the model who can decide whether to work fast or slow. A mirror behind the camera allows the model to check the pose. Before every shot, a bell goes off, and then a strobe light flashes. The whole system is devised to heighten the tension of the modelling session and to catch the model at the peak of each pose.
Carefully I explain the system to my models. I tell them, It’s up to you to control the whole sitting, you will decide when to stop, the entire responsibility is with you. Of course the lighting has been set up and a cross where they must stand has been marked on the floor.”
Helmut Newton Autobiography
Nan A. Talese, Munich, 2002
French Photo,
Oct 1971
Images taken from Helmut Newton
- Pages from the Glossies,
Scalo, 1998
Exclusive Interview
Tiggy Maconochie, Helmut Newton’s agent for the past 20 years and now the representative of his estate, invites Topshop to her studio to share an exclusive insight on Helmut Newton and the iconic images he created.
The Helmut Newton Foundation
The Foundation is an international organisation dedicated to the promotion, preservation and photographic works of Helmut Newton and his wife June, whose photographic pseudonym is Alice Springs.
The Foundation was established by Helmut Newton himself in 2003 and the space was officially handed over to the Newtons by the president of the Prussian Cultural Heritage Foundation and the Mayor of Berlin and is jointly funded by the Newtons and the Prussian Cultural Heritage.
According to the wishes of Helmut Newton, the Foundation should not be a “dead museum” but rather a “living institution”. Various aspects of Newton’s multifaceted, innovative and provocative works are and have been shown in a series of exhibitions, which have since travelled.
The Foundation celebrates its fourth triumphant year with the upcoming exhibition 'Pigozzi and the Paparazzi'.
Visit the Foundation
Jebensstrasse 2
D-10623 Berlin
Opening hours
Tues − Sun 10am − 6pm
Thurs 10am − 10pm
Also see
www.helmutnewton.com
Bibliography
-
Helmut Newton
Photofile Series, Thames & Hudson 2007, reprint of Photopoche from 1986 -
“Playboy”
Helmut Newton, Schirmer Art Books 2006 -
Gun For Hire
Elena Foster, Grimaldi Forum 2005 -
Sex & Landscapes,
Edition II, Taschen 2004 -
Autobiography
Helmut Newton, Yellow Press 2002, Random House 2003
-
Sex & Landscapes
De Pury Luxemburg 2001 -
Work
Taschen Köln 2000 -
Sumo
Taschen Köln 1999 -
Pages from the Glossies
Scalo Zurich 1998 -
Us & Them (Collaboration with June Newton)
Scalo Zurich 1998 -
Helmut Newton
Odakyu Museum Tokyo 1995 -
Helmut Newton’s Illustrated No 4: Dr Phantasme
Schirmer / Mosel Munich 1995
-
The Best of Helmut Newton
Thunder’s Mouth Press NY 1993 -
Polawomen
Schirmer Art Books Munich 1992 -
Archives de Nuit
Schirmer Art Books Munich 1992 -
Helmut Newton’s Illustrated No 3: I Was There
Schirmer / Mosel Munich 1991 -
Portraits by Helmut Newton
Schirmer Art Books Munich 1989
-
Helmut Newton Portraits
National Portrait Gallery London 1988 -
Helmut Newton’s Illustrated No 2: Pictures from an Exhibition
Schirmer / Mosel Munich 1987 -
Helmut Newton’s Illustrated No 1: Sex and Power
Xavier Moreau NY 1987 -
Private Property
Schirmer / Mosel Munich 1986 -
Sleepless Nights
Schirmer Art Books Munich 1978 - Helmut Newton Photo Poche Paris 1986
-
World Without Men
Editions Filipacchi 1984 -
Big Nudes
Xavier Moreau NY 1982 -
White Women
Quartet Books Ltd London 1976